Heirloom Flowers

ANNUAL

Spring/summer bloom
Frost tender

EASIEST TO PLANT OUTDOORS

Plant in full sun in good garden soil only when weather is warm and settled, all danger of frost is past and both days and nights are evenly in the 50°F (10°C) range. Poke individual seeds into well-worked soil about 1/2 in. deep, 4 to 5 in. apart. Press the soil firmly over the seeds and keep the seedbed evenly moist until seedlings emerge in 8 to 10 days.

Important: when the seedlings are well-established, carefully thin them to a final spacing of 1 foot apart; this way they will have enough room to develop sturdy stalks that won’t blow over and big clusters of flowers. Any extra seedlings you need to remove can be transplanted elsewhere in the garden or potted up and given to friends.

TO START EARLY INDOORS

Several weeks before last frost date, sow seeds 1/2 inch deep in individual pots of well-drained seed starting mix. Keep moist and provide a strong light source until seedlings are well established and ready to plant outside. Transplant carefully, disturbing the roots as little as possible. Space seedlings 1 foot apart so plants will have room to grow and mature.

GROWING NOTES

Growing these colorful sunflowers for pollinators and bouquets is both easy and rewarding. Make several sowings several weeks apart and you’ll have a succession of flowers in full bloom. Keep soil moist and well weeded. Protect very young seedlings from bird predation by covering the bed with bird netting held tautly well above seedlings by supports. Or use plastic berry baskets, removing before plants get crowded.

Annual USDA Zones 5-8

Bluebonnets require full sun and well-drained ordinary soil of moderate alkalinity. They will not tolerate heavy clay soils, so if you have dense clay soil, grow them in raised beds amended with compost and sand to give them the good drainage they need. Bluebonnets are drought-adapted; do not overwater them during active growing periods.

HOW BLUEBONNETS GROW AND WHAT THEY NEED

Bluebonnet’s large, hard-coated seeds respond best to late summer/fall planting as exposure to winter soil abrasion. Precipitation and weather changes break down the naturally tough outer coat of the seeds to produce germination in fall or early spring. As spring breaks, plants respond to sun and warmth, and then bloom gloriously, attracting happy bees and butterflies. The beautiful flower spikes are deep blue with white tips. After flowering, seedpods form, dry and drop seed to rebloom the next season.

SOWING AND GROWING BLUEBONNETS

Plant seeds in late summer or early fall to overwinter and bloom the next spring (in hard winter areas, sow in very early spring). Plant in ordinary garden soil, preparing the soil by removing weeds, grass and stones. Evenly loosen the top 4 inches of soil with a shovel or digging fork and break up soil clumps, then rake smooth.

Broadcast the seed over the seed bed, aiming for 6 inch spacing. Cover lightly with soil, tamping it down to make sure the seeds get good soil contact. Water in well at planting time, then keep moist but on the dry side until seasonal rains take over. Seeds may take 3 to 4 weeks to slowly and unevenly germinate. Foliage rosettes of 5-7 leaves will develop close to the ground and overwinter that way. (If cold weather comes on, seeds may delay germination until the next spring.) After germination, seedlings develop long tap roots and usually don’t require additional irrigation.

In mild early spring weather, bluebonnets will actively begin growing again. Plants rapidly develop multiple 8-12 inch flowering stalks that bloom in a gorgeous blue color with white tips. After the colorful flowers fade, green seedpods form. When they are dried up and dark brown, pods pop open and drop seed to self-sow for next spring’s flowers.

ANNUAL

Spring/summer bloom
Frost tender

BEST TO START DIRECTLY OUTDOORS

In early spring, after all danger of frost is past, plant in a well-prepared garden bed in full sun. Shake packet to mix. Scatter the seed thinly and evenly over finely worked soil, aiming to have the seeds about an inch or so apart. Cover lightly, about 1/4 inch deep, and gently firm the soil over the seeds – a rake is handy for this step.

Water thoroughly and evenly with a very gentle spray. Keep the seed bed moist while awaiting germination and while flowers are actively growing for the most blossoms. The many flower varieties in this pretty mix will grow and bloom in succession throughout late spring and summer.

WHEN TO PLANT

In Mild Winter Climates, where ground does not freeze hard, sow in late fall to overwinter.

In Cold Winter Climates, where ground freezes hard, plant in fall for winter die back, then incorporate in spring, OR sow as early as possible in spring.

TO PREPARE THE PLANTING AREA

Remove weeds, grass and large stones. Break up soil clumps and evenly loosen the top 2 inches of soil with a rake. Scatter seeds thinly, 1 to 2 inches apart. Using a rake, cover seeds with fine soil 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep and lightly firm the soil. Water thoroughly and evenly.

Keep soil moist while germinating and when seedlings are small. Growing plants thrive best if watered regularly.

INCORPORATING YOUR COVER CROP

Method 1: When mustard is 5 to 6 inches tall, use a garden fork, shovel or rototiller to turn plants into the ground to break down and enrich soil for planting, which takes about a month.

Method 2: When mustard is about 1 foot tall, pull plants out, shake off soil, and then compost plants to incorporate into soil later as finished compost. Timing depends how long your composting process takes.

Method 3: When plants are 1 foot tall, weed whack the mustard to chop it down. Cover the chopped crop with black plastic to hasten decomposition and then turn the nutritious residue into the soil 2 to 3 weeks before sowing garden crops.